Day 5 - Day of Rest - Before we get into the serious trekking

Monday 13 October.

The Bliss of sleeping in a comfy bed!! Our happy Sherpas, knocked on the door at 7.00pm with steaming cup of coffee, closely followed by our bowl of hot water for washing. Then it was down for a hearty breakfast of porridge, omelette's and pancakes, washed down with hot milk coffee!!

Luckily our chief Sherpa (Mani) had a morning walk up to a lookout above the village planned. I can't believe how much I am eating!!

After our morning walk, we took advantage of the sun and spread our "frilly bits" (or not so frilly bits) out in the sun to dry.

After lunch our delightful host Mrs Sonam Sherpa guided us through The Sherwi Khangba Centre , a museum and cultural centre established by herself and her husband. The cultural centre displayed an interesting collection of newspaper cuttings, historical photos and stories of the Sherpa's and the local area. Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa is an accomplished photographer and many of his photos of the area were displayed as well. Some of these pictures can be seen on http://www.sherpa-culture.com.np/CulturalPhotoGallery-images.htm

Visiting the museum, reading the stories, and seeing all the pictures of Sherpa's that had died while climbing the mountains, brought home one thing to me. We hear a lot about the climbers from all over the world that have climbed, conquered or perished in the Himalayans. However we don't heard about all the Sherpa's who have been there supporting these climbers, and their equal achievements. It was very sobering to see the wall of pictures of Sherpa's (some very young) who had perished while supporting climbing groups.

After the tour of the museum a few of us decided to venture down to the village. It was fun wandering around the narrow winding streets, looking at all the colourful stalls selling a variety of souvenirs, trekking gear and supplies. We all purchased last minute items such as suncream, chocolates, and warm hats as these items would be much harder to find over the next few days.

After dinner, Mani gave us the usual "after dinner information session" of what we were to expect the following day, and it was off to bed ready for a 6.00pm start.

Day 4 - First Big Test, Monjo to Namche Bazaar

Sunday 12 October

Today was our first test, climbing for about 5 hours and going up around 700 metres. The first part of the trip we made our way along the Dudh Kosi to its junction with the Bhote Kosi (Rivers). There were lots of milky green boiling rapids and we crossed another couple of quite long suspension bridges. The last three and half hours was a slow trudge up and up. However, I found if you just took it slowly, and got into a rhythm it wasn't too bad.

The trail was very busy with trekkers and villagers bring goods back from Namche Bazaar. There were many groups of villagers herding jokpu (cattle) heavily laden with market goods. When we arrived at the village of Namche, we climbed up through the village to the Hotel Sherwi Khangba. This delightful hotel and restaurant was established by Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa. His amazing wife manages to cook hearty meals for trekkers, clean rooms, wash and dry trekker's clothes, assist with charging batteries and phones, accessing Internet, providing hot showers and towels. On top of this she provides tours and information sessions on the Museum that she and her husband have set up in honour of the Sherpa's that have lost their lives in the Himalayas. She was like a traffic policeman directing peak hour traffic, always with a smile on her face.

The bonus of staying here was the short requite from sleeping on the ground, a wonderful cosy dining room. Then came the exciting bit!! hot showers!! for only 200 rupees (money well spent!! it was divine to feel nice and clean).

We spend the afternoon in the library, some of us played a rather rowdy game of cards while others caught up on emails etc. After a hearty meal of mushroom soup, Buffalo stew, veggies and rice we all stumbled up to our rooms to recover from our big day. The zzz's were pumping out very quickly.

Day 3 Ghat to Monjo

Saturday 11 October

As I sit in my little orange home, I am surrounded by mountains that go up for ever. Just next to our camping ground there are veg fields with stone fences and then the small village of Monjo. In the distance you can hear the soft roar of the river as it boils its way through the valley. (how poetic is that!!!). This has to be the prettiest of camping spots!!!

Today we walked for about 5 hours, with a few more ups and downs that yesterday, crossed another three suspension bridges, passed through pine forests and lots of small rural villages. In many of the villages we saw the Mani walls. Stone structures made up of many stone tablets with the inscription "Om Mani Padme Hum" a Buddhist mantra.

We arrived at our camping ground in time for a late lunch. After lunch we went for a climb up through the village to the local school, and monastery. It is amazing how quickly you run out of breath when climbing up hill. All good training for what is to come.

Day 2 - We're on the Trail

Friday 10 October

Here I sit in my orange tent (my home for the next 22 days) and I have already had to give myself the silly award for the day. The Sherpa's came around with our bowl of hot water (for our evening wash) and I succeeded in knocking the bowl over!! I couldn't believe it. A mad panic, luckily we pulled everything outside, the corner of my mattress being the only casualty.

This morning was a very early start, up at 3.30am, dressed, bags down to reception, quick breakfast and onto the bus to the airport. Now this was and experience. Hopeful trekkers lined up from the airport out into the car park, lots of pushing and shoving. We got our first taste of some of the bad manners that some groups of trekkers can display!! We eventually got through the pretend bag checking station. (Our bags are loaded onto the conveyor belt and slide through the Xray machine, funny bit is the two men who are watching the baggage are in deep conversation with one of their mates and not even looking at the luggage!) Finally after more pushing and shoving and a body frisk we were into the terminal. We were advised, because of the backlog of trekkers wanting to fly through to Lukla World Expeditions had made special arrangements for us, and that we would definitely be getting a flight out that morning.

Next surprise! we were loaded onto a small bus with another group, and whisked across the tarmac to a small hanger with army planes in the front. Yes, our special flight was an army parachute plane complete with a very attractive, smiling soldier in battle fatigues as our hostess. We sat on bench seats, with our luggage piled up in the middle. What a buzz!!!

After a 30 minute flight and the "have to see to believe" landing in the little airport of Lukla, we met out head Sherpa for the trip Mani, and made our way through the crowds of villagers watching the planes land around to our starting point where all the Sherpas, cooks and porters were preparing for our trek. Soon it was on with our backpacks, and off we go. Ringi was the leading sherpa today, keeping a steady pace with a few stops, to help us acclimatise.(2,800m).

Today's was an easy 4 hour trek, through beautiful, lush farmland, crossing a couple of quite large suspension bridges and following the boiling milky blue-green waters of the Dudh Kose (Milk) River. When we arrived at our camping ground our bright orange tents were already set up, and afternoon tea of hot tea and biscuits followed quickly.

There were a couple of other groups camped in the same ground. One group was returning from the same trek that we are doing. Dinner was served in our Mess tent, three courses of pretty delicious camp food. Good thing I am doing a lot of walking, to burn all those carbs off!!

Day 1 - Sites of Kathmandu

Thursday 9th October

After breakfast we all assembled in the foyer, met our guide for the day, and climbed into the small bus. The first place we visited was the Hindu temple of Pashupathinath which sits on the banks of the holy Bagmati River.


This is the site of a large number of Hindu temples and the banks of the Bagmati River is the site for many Hindu cremations. Many Royal cremations take place at this site. At first I was a bit dubious about visiting this site, however I found it was very natural and peaceful. There were 6 sites along the river that were for the cremation and in other areas along the river families were preparing the bodies for cremation. I was pleased to say that tourists were polite and respectful.
It was interesting to see the mix of people visiting the various temples, holy men, mourners and of course the odd cow. There were a number of groups of Holy men who I found a little amusing. One couple were standing chatting and when they saw a group of tourists coming the jumped up and sat cross legged in one of the arches ready for photos. Another group were sitting and grooming themselves, taking great care in painting their skin and eyes. One of the younger holy men was the most amusing, looking a mirror and adjusting his face makeup. There were many long looks at his reflection in the mirror as he made minor adjustments to his make up and hair.

The next stop off was the Buddhist site- Bodhnath Stupa. As we had visited this site a couple of days previously, I took the time to wander around by myself and take pictures. I was fascinated by the colours of Nepal. They are so vibrant!

The afternoon tour was going to take us to Durbar Square in Kathmandu, as I had already visited this area I opted to stay at the hotel and start the task of packing my gear for the trek. The challenge of fitting all I needed for 22 days into that red bag and keeping the weight below 15 kgs was a little daunting.

A Reality Check and Team Talk

Today was meant to be a day of rest and purchasing of final necessities for our trek. However, after breakfast when we met in the foyer there was a strange and tense feeling around. World Expeditions staff were very quite and serious and a group that was to leave that morning, came back from the airport. As the day unfolded we found out that there had been a plane crash at Lukla (the town that we were to fly into on Friday to start out trek). A group of German trekkers, two Australians and the Nepalese flight staff were killed in the crash. This was quite a shock to us all, and certainly made us stop and think about what we were doing. All credit must go to World Expeditions as they had contacted all our home contact numbers and advised family that we were all okay before it hit the news.

Through the day we met the other members of the group we were going to be trekking with as they arrived at the hotel. That evening we all met at the pool bar/restaurant for our first official meeting and information session. The Head Sherpa who was to lead our group was not able to get back from Lukla because of the crash so one of the local leaders took us through all the details, advised on equipment we may need and answered our many questions. We were given out red bags (which were to hold all our gear for the trek) and down sleeping bags and jackets.

Tomorrow was to be our first official day of the trek, and this would be a guided tour of some of the sites around Kathmandu followed by a group dinner at a local restaurant in the evening.

Krishnarpan Restaurant

What a special treat! We all met in the foyer, all dolled up in our trekking best. After a short cab ride through the back streets we again arrived at Dwarika's Hotel, where we sat in the gardens and watched the slow rhythmical dancing of a local Nepalese girl and enjoyed a pre-dinner drink. Then it was time for a gastronomical treat. We strolled past the statues and fountains to Krishnarpan Restaurant, nestled within the gardens of Dwarika's Hotel.

As we entered we were greeted at the door by a number of hostess and after removing our shoes they washed our hands, by pouring water over our hands, as we held them over a brass bowl, then handed us individual fluffy white towels to wipe them. We were then lead to our table at the rear of the restaurant and introduced to the two ladies who were going to look after us for the evening.

One of our hostesses was deaf and dumb, however this wasn't a handicap as she was most attentive to all our needs. We were amazed at her skill at pouring the rice wine. (shown in picture) She held the jug high above her head and poured the wine into tiny little clay cups
(without spilling a single drop). As soon as your cup was empty she was there filling it up again.

We all sat on cushions around out table and were treated to six courses of fragrant spicy food. It was a night of lots of laughs and excitement as we anticipated the adventure that we were about to embark on. A long way from the blue mess tent that would host most of our meals for the next 23 days.