Sunday, December 7, 2008
Day 7 - Yeti Country
Woke early this morning, glad to report no nightmares about yeti's.
Also pleased to report that I am feeling refreshed, no sore muscles after yesterday's climb. Up goes the tent zipper, and here is my morning cup of tea and bowl of hot water, the start of another day. Time for my bird bath, to pack my kit bag and day pack and off to breakfast before another day's climb. We camp at 4,000 metres tonight. Stay tuned.
Wednesday afternoon.
Spectacular! I just know that I am going to run out of superlatives on this trip. This morning we climbed up out of the valley. The sides of the mountains were an array of autumn colours. There were fir trees, red birch with their red papery bark hanging amongst the "oldman's beard" that clung to their branches. We crossed a number of small log bridges over streams and small waterfalls. As we climbed higher the -2 C temperature climbed up to a warm 24C. We were all soon peeling off our layers and stuffing them into our daypacks. It was like being in a middle world. Below us we could see the river winding through the valley and snowy peaks towered above us. At one time we could see the peaks of 5 mountains with a number of them over 8,000 metres. A bit of trivia (according to Mani) of the top 13 highest mountains in the world 9 of them are in Nepal.
There was one point where we had a really tough uphill climb. Everyone was focused on putting one foot in front of the other, a little daunted by the task of the path that reached ever up ward. Mani called for a water and rest stop in a small clearing. We all flopped onto the nearest rock, pulled out our water bottles and looked at what was behind us!! Wedged between the sides of the valley was the most amazing view of Khumbila and a number of other peaks whose names I have forgotten. (picture above). We were all gob smacked by the view. Mani, was still below us watching our reaction, was feeling very pleased with himself that he had been able to deliver such and awesome experience.
We arrived at our camp site in time for lunch. Our tents were all set up in a clearing in front of the Yeti Inn. The afternoon was spent catching up on our washing while we still had some sunlight to dry things, writing up diaries etc.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Day 6 - Up we go! Namche Bazaar to Portse Tenga
Day 5 - Day of Rest - Before we get into the serious trekking
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Day 4 - First Big Test, Monjo to Namche Bazaar
Today was our first test, climbing for about 5 hours and going up around 700 metres. The first part of the trip we made our way along the Dudh Kosi to its junction with the Bhote Kosi (Rivers). There were lots of milky green boiling rapids and we crossed another couple of quite long suspension bridges. The last three and half hours was a slow trudge up and up. However, I found if you just took it slowly, and got into a rhythm it wasn't too bad.
The trail was very busy with trekkers and villagers bring goods back from Namche Bazaar. There were many groups of villagers herding jokpu (cattle) heavily laden with market goods. When we arrived at the village of Namche, we climbed up through the village to the Hotel Sherwi Khangba. This delightful hotel and restaurant was established by Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa. His amazing wife manages to cook hearty meals for trekkers, clean rooms, wash and dry trekker's clothes, assist with charging batteries and phones, accessing Internet, providing hot showers and towels. On top of this she provides tours and information sessions on the Museum that she and her husband have set up in honour of the Sherpa's that have lost their lives in the Himalayas. She was like a traffic policeman directing peak hour traffic, always with a smile on her face.
The bonus of staying here was the short requite from sleeping on the ground, a wonderful cosy dining room. Then came the exciting bit!! hot showers!! for only 200 rupees (money well spent!! it was divine to feel nice and clean).
We spend the afternoon in the library, some of us played a rather rowdy game of cards while others caught up on emails etc. After a hearty meal of mushroom soup, Buffalo stew, veggies and rice we all stumbled up to our rooms to recover from our big day. The zzz's were pumping out very quickly.
Monday, November 24, 2008
Day 3 Ghat to Monjo
As I sit in my little orange home, I am surrounded by mountains that go up for ever. Just next to our camping ground there are veg fields with stone fences and then the small village of Monjo. In the distance you can hear the soft roar of the river as it boils its way through the valley. (how poetic is that!!!). This has to be the prettiest of camping spots!!!
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Day 2 - We're on the Trail
Here I sit in my orange tent (my home for the next 22 days) and I have already had to give myself the silly award for the day. The Sherpa's came around with our bowl of hot water (for our evening wash) and I succeeded in knocking the bowl over!! I couldn't believe it. A mad panic, luckily we pulled everything outside, the corner of my mattress being the only casualty.
This morning was a very early start, up at 3.30am, dressed, bags down to reception, quick breakfast and onto the bus to the airport. Now this was and experience. Hopeful trekkers lined up from the airport out into the car park, lots of pushing and shoving. We got our first taste of some of the bad manners that some groups of trekkers can display!! We eventually got through the pretend bag checking station. (Our bags are loaded onto the conveyor belt and slide through the Xray machine, funny bit is the two men who are watching the baggage are in deep conversation with one of their mates and not even looking at the luggage!) Finally after more pushing and shoving and a body frisk we were into the terminal. We were advised, because of the backlog of trekkers wanting to fly through to Lukla World Expeditions had made special arrangements for us, and that we would definitely be getting a flight out that morning.
Next surprise! we were loaded onto a small bus with another group, and whisked across the tarmac to a small hanger with army planes in the front. Yes, our special flight was an army parachute plane complete with a very attractive, smiling soldier in battle fatigues as our hostess. We sat on bench seats, with our luggage piled up in the middle. What a buzz!!!
After a 30 minute flight and the "have to see to believe" landing in the little airport of Lukla, we met out head Sherpa for the trip Mani, and made our way through the crowds of villagers watching the planes land around to our starting point where all the Sherpas, cooks and porters were preparing for our trek. Soon it was on with our backpacks, and off we go. Ringi was the leading sherpa today, keeping a steady pace with a few stops, to help us acclimatise.(2,800m).
Today's was an easy 4 hour trek, through beautiful, lush farmland, crossing a couple of quite large suspension bridges and following the boiling milky blue-green waters of the Dudh Kose (Milk) River. When we arrived at our camping ground our bright orange tents were already set up, and afternoon tea of hot tea and biscuits followed quickly.
There were a couple of other groups camped in the same ground. One group was returning from the same trek that we are doing. Dinner was served in our Mess tent, three courses of pretty delicious camp food. Good thing I am doing a lot of walking, to burn all those carbs off!!
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Day 1 - Sites of Kathmandu
This is the site of a large number of Hindu temples and the banks of the Bagmati River is the site for many Hindu cremations. Many Royal cremations take place at this site. At first I was a bit dubious about visiting this site, however I found it was very natural and peaceful. There were 6 sites along the river that were for the cremation and in other areas along the river families were preparing the bodies for cremation. I was pleased to say that tourists were polite and respectful.
It was interesting to see the mix of people visiting the various temples, holy men, mourners and of course the odd cow. There were a number of groups of Holy men who I found a little amusing. One couple were standing chatting and when they saw a group of tourists coming the jumped up and sat cross legged in one of the arches ready for photos. Another group were sitting and grooming themselves, taking great care in painting their skin and eyes. One of the younger holy men was the most amusing, looking a mirror and adjusting his face makeup. There were many long looks at his reflection in the mirror as he made minor adjustments to his make up and hair.
The next stop off was the Buddhist site- Bodhnath Stupa. As we had visited this site a couple of days previously, I took the time to wander around by myself and take pictures. I was fascinated by the colours of Nepal. They are so vibrant!
The afternoon tour was going to take us to Durbar Square in Kathmandu, as I had already visited this area I opted to stay at the hotel and start the task of packing my gear for the trek. The challenge of fitting all I needed for 22 days into that red bag and keeping the weight below 15 kgs was a little daunting.
A Reality Check and Team Talk
Through the day we met the other members of the group we were going to be trekking with as they arrived at the hotel. That evening we all met at the pool bar/restaurant for our first official meeting and information session. The Head Sherpa who was to lead our group was not able to get back from Lukla because of the crash so one of the local leaders took us through all the details, advised on equipment we may need and answered our many questions. We were given out red bags (which were to hold all our gear for the trek) and down sleeping bags and jackets.
Tomorrow was to be our first official day of the trek, and this would be a guided tour of some of the sites around Kathmandu followed by a group dinner at a local restaurant in the evening.
Krishnarpan Restaurant
As we entered we were greeted at the door by a number of hostess and after removing our shoes they washed our hands, by pouring water over our hands, as we held them over a brass bowl, then handed us individual fluffy white towels to wipe them. We were then lead to our table at the rear of the restaurant and introduced to the two ladies who were going to look after us for the evening.
One of our hostesses was deaf and dumb, however this wasn't a handicap as she was most attentive to all our needs. We were amazed at her skill at pouring the rice wine. (shown in picture) She held the jug high above her head and poured the wine into tiny little clay cups
(without spilling a single drop). As soon as your cup was empty she was there filling it up again.
We all sat on cushions around out table and were treated to six courses of fragrant spicy food. It was a night of lots of laughs and excitement as we anticipated the adventure that we were about to embark on. A long way from the blue mess tent that would host most of our meals for the next 23 days.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Visit to the Tailor's, Jeweller's and The Garden of Dreams (7th October)
The tailor's little shop was dark and dingy. However he was very professional and the actual experience of chatting, looking through old vogue books and at the bolts fabric that lined one wall of his shop was enough to satisfy us. The fact that we were going to get some new clothes and very good prices was a bonus. He informed us that he had trained in London and that he did quite a bit of work for people at Consulates and Embassies. I would say he was in his mid 30's. We paid our deposits and he promised to have the garments ready when we arrived back from our trek.
Our next discovery was just a couple of blocks away from the tailors. This was a small Tibetan jewellers. There are many jewellers in the Thamel area, for some reason we were attracted to this shop. As we looked at the display in the shop we got chatting to the jeweller, he started to tell us his story of escaping from Tibet to Darjeeling in the late 1950's. This became the first of a number of visits that I made to this jewellers, to buy a couple pieces of jewellery, introduce others from our group to him and to listen to his stories. He had such a gentle yet very interesting and intelligent demeanour, and it was great to hear his stories and opinion on the present day situation in Nepal and Tibet and their relationships with China.
After this "intense" morning of shopping it was time to discover another gem close to the Thamil area, The Garden of Dreams. Over the past seven years a government project has seen the renovation of these gardens from a state of serious neglect and disrepair. It was a lovely sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the centre of Kathmandu. As we sat amongst the pools and fountains eating a delicious chicken sandwich, the only reminder of the chaos outside was the sound of the car horns at a nearby intersection.
It was then time to head back to our hotel where we would meet the other people going on our trek and to get ready for our big night at Krishnarpan. (story for another blog!!)
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Bhaktapur - India Jones eat your heart out!!! (7th October)
After our lunch at Dwarika's and a game of Bagha-Chall (traditional Nepalese board game, with tigers and goats) our driver took us to Bhaktapur. Bhaktapur is a heritage list town about 20km east of Kathmandu on the old trade route to Tibet. The ancient city is filled with Hindu and Buddhist religious sites and art.
It was like walking onto the set of an Indiana Jones movie. Temples and palaces of all shapes and sizes dating as far back as 15th century are crammed within the city walls.
We wandered around the narrow streets and amongst the temples for a couple of hours. The whole town was awash with vibrant colours, as the people celebrated the local festival. Our driver, who also became our guide (as he thought the local guides would have all been celebrating and under the weather with too much rice wine) informed us that this was the day of the festival when the men buy a new outfit and jewellery for their wives. (again he lamented at the cost!!). We were convinced the reason he was happy to drive us around on a public holiday was so that he could escape away from the stresses of family life. Quite a character!!
Monday, November 10, 2008
Exploring Kathmandu Valley (6th October)
Our first stop was Kopan Monastery high on hilltop on the outskirts of Kathmandu. We were lucky enough to be allowed into the main temple (after taking our shoes off) and one of the monks gave us a detailed tour which also included visiting their library where there many old Tibetan books (wrapped in cloth) were stored.
While we were there was a break in class and all the young monks (some looked as young as 8-9 years old, very cute and cheeky!) all came out of class and were running around playing in the area outside the library.
On our way to our next stop, our driver entertained us with a detailed description of the seven day ritual that he went through when he was married. He was also lamenting his teenage daughter, telling us that children of today had changed and wanted all the new and up to date equipment. The next stop was the impressive and very famous Bodhnath Stupa.
Amazing place, the structure is huge, surrounded by a circle of buildings that house monasteries and tourist shops selling, paintings, artifacts, jewelery. We spend considerable time wandering around, taking in the sights and sounds.
It was now time for lunch. Pam had a great treat organised for us, not far from the Stupa is the famous Dwarika's Hotel.
The story of Dwarika's is facinating (the link above gives details). The beautiful old hotel is the dream of Dwarika Das Shrestha who could see many of the old unique nepalese buildings were being knocked down and the art of carved windows etc was being lost. So when ever an old building was knocked down he would buy all the old pieces and saved them. Eventually he purchased the sight of the present Dwarika's hotel and started the restoration and revival of the traditional Nepalese building.
Friday, November 7, 2008
I'm Back
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Kathmandu
Well I have arrived safely, trip was pretty good as far as long flights go. Arrived yesterday about lunch time, and the trip from the airport to our hotel gave us our first taste of the colour, smells (good and bad), hustle and bustle, and traffic chaos that seems to work despite itself).
This week is the festival of kites so yesterday, all the locals were out in the best clothes, the mix of vibrant colours was amazing.
Once we settled into our hotel, had a very much need shower and lunch we caught a taxi out to
Putan an area on the outskirts of Kathmandu. We spend the afternoon wandering around the many temples in the centre of town, and through all the narrow lane ways away from the hustle and bustle of the main area. From the tops of the buildings we could see all the children flying their kites. The sky was full of kites swooping and soaring.
Our evening consisted a drink and momo's (dumplings) at the bar on the corner near out hotel. The eyelids got the better of us and it was back to our rooms for a well earned sleep.
To day I am off exploring on my own, bottle of water, suncream and hat in hand. Have spent the morning wandering the stalls of the Tamil area, and perfecting the art of saying"no this is my first day, I am just looking at the moment".
Friday, October 3, 2008
Dday or should I say N (for Nepal Day)!!
Thursday, October 2, 2008
One More Sleep to Go!!!
The Australian Himalayan Foundation advised us yesterday that we have almost reached the $4000 mark with out fund raising.
This morning I dropped into the discount bookshop and selected a few of small soft covered books to give to the schools in Nepal while we are there. I guess I won't be posting anything else on this blog for a while. Hopefully I will have access to make a couple of posts while I am away. The main blogs will come when I get arrive back and transfer stories from my diary.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Time to pack
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Spit Bridge-Manly - final predeparture adventure
Thursday, September 18, 2008
WOWOWOWOWO
In the words of our group leader "WOWOWOWOWO, Well done…………….everyone deserves a big hug for all your efforts……..Lets recognise our Mum’s and aunties as well who collected $2.00 donations as well as all those people who gave at raffles. It is all worth while and adds up…Great stuff….I am really chuffed ……..What a day!!!".
Friday, September 12, 2008
Three weeks to Go!!
This week I received an email from the AHF advising that our donations were trickling in (thank you everyone!!). Our group even made the latest version of the AHF's newsletter Yakety Yak. AHF also advised that they have considered our request and changed the online donation amounts to include $25 and $50 as it was pointed out by one of our group members that it was a bit much to expect people to donate $100. Good move on the part of AHF.
If you are still considering making a donation this can be done on line..... or by printing off pdf donation form attached to the web page. Please if you do this can you advise that the donation is for "Climbing to Support Himalayan Education" code no (ECO8DH). Every little bit helps.
My preparation this week has been quiet, though I have managed to walk every morning before work and have made a couple of lunch time laps of Darling Harbour.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
It Must Be Spring!
This weeks preparation has been quiet, a few more donations have come in for my fundraising. Thank you all. I have spent my travel time on train reading up on Nepal and have just finished reading Kiran Desai's book The Inheritance of Loss, a story about an interesting group of people set in the Himalaya's in time of civil unrest. A good read.
This afternoon I spent a little time at our local healthfood store researching the available biodegradable soaps, shampoos and washing liquids to take on the trek. I was surprised at the choices. After some advice from the lady at the counter I selected a shampoo, conditioner and general purpose washing liquid. World Expeditions are committed to responsible travel and sustainability and emphasis the importance of the conservation of the environment while we are on our trek.
Monday, September 1, 2008
A big thank you to the Atherton Thursday Morning Craft Ladies!!!!
Evidently the ladies were quite impressed with our efforts, especially since some of our group were from the more mature age bracket. The "hat" was passed around and Nan collected $100 for our project. What a great effort. Thank you very much to the ladies of the Atherton Thursday Morning Craft Club!! I promise to send you some photos of the schools I visit when I get back from my trek.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Pleasantly Surprised
Friday, August 29, 2008
Buzz of excitement
This week I have been able to tick off getting my visa and a visit to Dr's for the inevitable jab in the arm and script for antibiotics and anti Nepal belly tablets. (one needs to be prepared). Earlier this invested in a new pair of u beaut!! super dooper gloves!! I have been advised that it is important to keep all extremities warm.
I acquired my latest investment today.At lunch time I wandered down to Paddy's market and purchased pocket knife come multi tool device thingy!!!! which has everything from a bottle opener, pliers, pocket knife, screwdriver etc to a small light. Now I just have to work out how to use it.
Well tomorrow I am off on another pre-trek adventure. A friend and I are getting up at sparrow's ....... to catch a train to Otford where we are joining a National Parks trekking group and walking to Waterfall (25-27 kms depending on which map you look at). This will really put the old legs to the test. Stories and photos to come on Sunday, as I am sure I will be sitting up resting and recovering.
Monday, August 25, 2008
EdgeCliff-Bondi
Friday, August 22, 2008
Pre-Trek Adventures
Everest and Beyond
Monday, August 18, 2008
On with the training
Over the past three days, Steve and I have taken a mini break at Terrigal. It has been great, and the weather has been sunny, though it is a little cold for swimming. However, I haven't forgotten that I am supposed to be focusing on getting fit as it is now only seven weeks to go. Each afternoon, I have waved goodbye to Steve (who is sitting in the sun in front of the Surf Club, paper in hand and sipping on a frothy coffee) and start tramping the streets, looking for the steepest hill to climb. (You have to question my sanity). As I puff my way to the top of the steps to the look out, I wonder when this is going to get easier.
At the top of the lookout I look down on the scene below, beautiful beach and rugged cliffs in the distance and ponder on how different this is to the views I will witness in seven weeks time.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
The Australian Himalayan Foundation
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Eight Weeks to Go
About two years ago, I was sitting in the Uni Library, working on an assignment when an email came through from an associate that I had met through a work acquaintance, inviting me to join a group of women to trek in Nepal. I quickly forgot my assignment work and started to do a little research on the trek. It was like someone tapped me on the shoulder and said "you should do this!" (I am a great believer that sometimes opportunities crop up out of the blue and that you should grab them with both hands).
However, with this there were a lot of things to consider. Would I be fit enough? Cost? It would be the first time that I had set out on an adventure without including Steve in something like 30 years. That was a tough one as I knew it would be something that he would like to do as well.
It took quite a few conversations for me to realise that he was happy for me to go by myself, and after about 6 months of will I, won't I, the decision was made, and deposit paid.
So exciting!!!!!!! I am sure many of my friends are tired of hearing me talk about it.
After the original email, there was a group of about 12 women from around the world who were interested in going on the trip. Our chief organiser and motivator started to set up a network, encouraging us all to start getting fit, providing lots of background information and support to guide us along the way.
As time passed by the core group of 6 women have decided to take on the 25 day challenge which will start in Kathmandu on 8 October 2008. We will be traveling with World Expeditions and doing the Everest Circuit.
It cannot be denied that we are really looking forward to the adventure side of this trip. However it was the general consensus amongst the 6 members of the group that we should also give something back to the community that we were going to visit. So it was agreed that as a group we would look at how we could best provide some assistance to the communities that we would visit on our trip.